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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:banghead: I hate head gaskets!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:banghead::banghead:
Took the timing light out saturday night to try to get the car dialed in to where it was manageable enough to go to the Dyno and you can guess the rest of the story!

:fail:
 

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Cometic.
 

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You sure you don't have warped heads/block? You sure your timing pointer is correct? Pull the engine around to TDC on #1 intake and make sure man!

And Cometics are mls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, I know they are MLS, that's why I asked, I gots the Felpro MLS's. I had the heads machined 2 weeks ago when I put them on last time, TDC the pointer is at 0. Having a detonation issue since car has been on the road, can't get the timing and BTM combo right (if the BTM is even working). I don't know, I am stumped!


You sure you don't have warped heads/block? You sure your timing pointer is correct? Pull the engine around to TDC on #1 intake and make sure man!

And Cometics are mls.
 

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What is your BTM set at? I believe they will only pull up to 12* of timing total so take that into account. Not 100% sure on that so you may wanna check.

For reference, my car is a 331 with a BTM set at 2*/lb and my total timing is locked at 26*. Blower is a Vortech T-trim making 12psi on my car (no intercooler) and it's on the razor's edge of wanting to detonate (hasn't yet). My heads are small and my compression is 10.4:1.

Perhaps try running it without the BTM and lock it out at about 18-20* or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah, I will try that. I had the timing locked out from 12 and up trying everything and it just never ran right. I had it to where it wouldn't detonate but would break up. I had the btm all over the place cuz I can set it in the car, it is 15* max retard. we have a similar combo, mine is a 10:1 308 on 15+ lbs, so there is no reason mine shouldn't run right. I have had problems keeping coolant in it since it was back together. It wasn't smoking and no plugs were wet so I figured it was an air pocket but now I am thinking it has been seeping a little and maybe that's where the detonation is coming from. It still doesn't smoke but I started it last night, changed the timing and shut it off right away and went to pull the radiator cap and it shot the fucken cap off and blew water all over my garage (and in my face) and it was cold!


What is your BTM set at? I believe they will only pull up to 12* of timing total so take that into account. Not 100% sure on that so you may wanna check.

For reference, my car is a 331 with a BTM set at 2*/lb and my total timing is locked at 26*. Blower is a Vortech T-trim making 12psi on my car (no intercooler) and it's on the razor's edge of wanting to detonate (hasn't yet). My heads are small and my compression is 10.4:1.

Perhaps try running it without the BTM and lock it out at about 18-20* or so.
 

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Gaskets oriented correctly? Debris between head and gasket? Kinda hard to tell i guess till you get it apart.
 

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You sure you don't have warped heads/block? You sure your timing pointer is correct? Pull the engine around to TDC on #1 intake and make sure man!

And Cometics are mls.


was thinking the same thing as i was reading this.. what are your tq#'s on the head bolts.. did you put them on with moly? (<--not a girls name) sorry, lot of questions all at once..!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sealed lower studs, Moly lubed, bolts nuts and washers, went 30lb, 40lb, 60lb, 70lb, 80lb in sequence. ARP studs said 80lbs with Moly or 85lb with 10w30 weight.


was thinking the same thing as i was reading this.. what are your tq#'s on the head bolts.. did you put them on with molly? (<--not a girls name) sorry, lot of questions all at once..!
 

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Sealed lower studs, Moly lubed, bolts nuts and washers, went 30lb, 40lb, 60lb, 70lb, 80lb in sequence. ARP studs said 80lbs with Moly or 85lb with 10w30 weight.
i wouldn't be shy to take them a lil' tighter.. 90-95ft#'s.. we've run them as high as 110ft#'s on ARP's.. anywho just a thought.. let me know if you need help.. :thumbsup:
 

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Did you run the uppers and the lowers at the same torque? With the ARPs you wanna run the uppers about 10lbs extra (some folks prefer another amount). And yeah, torque them bitches!

Sounds like it's just something we'll have to see once you get it apart. Hmm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Scott! Should I retorque them bitches down before I go through the hassle of pulling them apart and see if it seals?


i wouldn't be shy to take them a lil' tighter.. 90-95ft#'s.. we've run them as high as 110ft#'s on ARP's.. anywho just a thought.. let me know if you need help.. :thumbsup:
 

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i wouldn't be shy to take them a lil' tighter.. 90-95ft#'s.. we've run them as high as 110ft#'s on ARP's.. anywho just a thought.. let me know if you need help.. :thumbsup:
Yeah, but if the block was honed with a deck plate torqued to 80 ft lbs, and you torque the heads to 95 ft lbs, you'll distort the bore so bad ring seal is gone.
I use a Mityvac with the hose on the pressure side to set up BTM's, you have to use a pressure gauge with it , the Mityvac gauge only reads vacumn, the BTM knob controller can be off by a half a degree per pound of boost, I've seen it a few times.
Do you retorque the heads after a couple of heat cycles? you should , regardless of type of gasket, just thought I'd add to what has already been said ...good luck.
 
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