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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Big chassis/suspension project

Well, the time has come. After installing the new turbo and driving/tuning the car for all of a month, some of the chassis issues that have plagued me since I got the car have been amplified by additional power, and the car has become unsafe to drive.

First big problem is a clunking noise coming from the rear end that happens anytime I release the clutch a little too quickly (hey it happens!) and the car jerks, or when the clutch is fully engaged at too low of an RPM and I chatter (big cams, ported head, big turbo = no drivability under 1600rpm). So I pulled out the rear suspension/subframe, which included the rear subframe, diff, mustache bar, upper and lower control arms, trailing arms, axles, hubs, brakes, and swaybar all in one unit! Aside from brake cables, lines, and struts, it only takes four bolts to remove the entire unit! Upon examination, I was able to determine that the source of the clunk (and probably most of my rear end noise), is the forward mounting point of the PS trailing arm, which has been slipping and wallowed out eyelet to the point of no return. So I need a new rear subframe.

Next big problem is the steering. The car has needed an alignment since I got it, but it recently developed a violent shudder through the steering wheel anytime I let off the gas over about 50mph. Very scary.

Everything else is in need of maintenance anywyas, so it's gonna be down until I fix it all, here's the list of parts and repairs:

Rear end:

-New rear Subframe (needed)

-Poly rear Subframe/Mustache bar bushings (have)

-Poly rear control arm bushings (have)

-Rear wheel bearings/seals (need)

Front end:

-Poly subframe bushings (have)

-Poly control arm bushings (have)

-Poly engine mount inserts (have)

-Front wheel bearings/seals (need)

Driveshaft:

-New universals (need)

-New carrier bearings (need)

Steering:

-Manual steering rack (have, needs rebuild)

-New inner/outer tie rod ends (need)

-New steering rack boots (need)

Brakes:

-Replace front factory single piston calipers with factory dual piston calipers

-Hawk HPS pads all the way around

-Braided lines all the way around

I am very seriously considering completing the suspension with a set of Hotbits coilovers, and front/rear swaybars as well, but it's getting pretty expensive already, so we'll see what happens. If not, I'll at least replace my old KYB AGX's with a fresh set, and new springs all the way around.

OUCH! That's a lot of crap, but it will be worth it in the end!

I'll post some pics of the progress tonight, car is on four jack stands, rear subframe and suspension are out, driveshaft is out.
 
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Damn that a shit load of problems/things to do and get done. We had that when we were fixing my honeys talon. Our total came to like 5000
 

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Brakes:

-Replace front factory single piston calipers with factory dual piston calipers

-Hawk HPS pads all the way around

-Braided lines all the way around
since youre upgrading the brakes, have you thought about doing the rotors too? going with slotted or xdrilled? i just bought a package with stoptech slotted rotors, hawk hps pads, braided lines, and ate brake fluid. im thinking it should help alot.
good luck with the repairs. i think its crazy when people mod their cars just for power, then let everything else go to shit cause they cant afford to maintain the basics lol. coilovers and sways would be sweet. go for it if you can!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone, pics are on the way...

Damn good luck on that man. How much power does the T make.
I'm really not sure, and I don't like to bench race, but here are the facts: I ran 12.7 on 91 on the old 44lb/min turbo running 23psi. I now have bigger cams, more fuel, better management, and a 62mm PTE that flows over 70lb/min running 20psi at the moment, but I'm still tuning.

since youre upgrading the brakes, have you thought about doing the rotors too? going with slotted or xdrilled? i just bought a package with stoptech slotted rotors, hawk hps pads, braided lines, and ate brake fluid. im thinking it should help alot.
good luck with the repairs. i think its crazy when people mod their cars just for power, then let everything else go to shit cause they cant afford to maintain the basics lol. coilovers and sways would be sweet. go for it if you can!
I have thought about replacing the rotors as well, in fact I currently have slotted rotors up front, but they're a smaller diameter than the ones used for the two piston front upgrade. I'll probably order a set of slotted or x-drilled rotors from EGay, but havn't started looking yet.

Damn dude good luck with all that. It has cost me a shit load building my talon. What year is yours? Is it a fwd or awd
Yeah, it adds up, but DSM's are still the most cost effective way to go fast, IMO. Mine is a 92 awd. It ran 12's when I got it for $4k from Wes Hess who built it as his DD. I've since done another $4k or so in upgrades/mods/maintenence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It's been a while since I updated here, so I thought I'd fill you in on the progress... Still no pics, but they're coming!

So I dropped the whole rear subframe, diff, all rear susp components, and the drive shaft.

Subframe is destroyed, all the mounting points for the control arms and trailing arms were wallowed out, which is a big part of all the noise the rear end was making. I then discovered the source of the really bad noise, two of the diff mounting bolts had broken off, and the snout was slamming upwards into the subframe every time I accelerated, Yikes!

Got a new subframe, and installed the poly bushings into the four rear body mount points.

Today I got most the rest of my parts, which includes all wheel bearings (there are 6) and matching seals, some more urethane, inner/outer tie rod ends for the manual rack and billows, universals and carrier bearings, ball joints, and new camber bolts/washers/nuts top off the list. Also, a pair of RM swaybars are on the way...

I also picked up a shop press which I'm using to do almost all this work.

I havn't ordered any of the braking system components yet, or a friction disc and flywheel, which I also plan on installing during this project. Coilovers are out of the equation, just can't afford it at this point. I did, however, send my old sheet metal intake manifold to Magnus Motorsports to have a warranty repair taken care of, and after we talked for a while I decided to go ahead and order up their Drag Version manifold, which had about twice the volume of the street version that I was running before. I also had them add provisions for a secondary fuel rail, with the intent of running an 8 injector setup with 650cc primary's and 1000cc secondary's, for now.

Including the intake manifold, I'm well over $2500 into this leg of the Talon project, which put's me pretty close to closing the book, but it's gonna be like a brand new car when I'm done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's been a while since I updated here, so I thought I'd fill you in on the progress... Still no pics, but they're coming!

So I dropped the whole rear subframe, diff, all rear susp components, and the drive shaft.

Subframe is destroyed, all the mounting points for the control arms and trailing arms were wallowed out, which is a big part of all the noise the rear end was making. I then discovered the source of the really bad noise, two of the diff mounting bolts had broken off, and the snout was slamming upwards into the subframe every time I accelerated, Yikes!

Got a new subframe, and installed the poly bushings into the four rear body mount points.

Today I got most the rest of my parts, which includes all wheel bearings (there are 6) and matching seals, some more urethane, inner/outer tie rod ends for the manual rack and billows, universals and carrier bearings, ball joints, and new camber bolts/washers/nuts top off the list. Also, a pair of RM swaybars are on the way...

I also picked up a shop press which I'm using to do almost all this work.

I havn't ordered any of the braking system components yet, or a friction disc and flywheel, which I also plan on installing during this project. Coilovers are out of the equation, just can't afford it at this point. I did, however, send my old sheet metal intake manifold to Magnus Motorsports to have a warranty repair taken care of, and after we talked for a while I decided to go ahead and order up their Drag Version manifold, which had about twice the volume of the street version that I was running before. I also had them add provisions for a secondary fuel rail, with the intent of running an 8 injector setup with 650cc primary's and 1000cc secondary's, for now.

Including the intake manifold, I'm well over $2500 into this leg of the Talon project, which put's me pretty close to closing the book, but it's gonna be like a brand new car when I'm done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Well guys, work continues, and with the arrival of my new intake manifold, motivation is ever increasing. Unfortunately I've been sick for about a week and a half (although I've done some work anyways) with a common (not swine) flu. At any rate, I thought I'd take some time tonight to do a long awaited pic update! Now, most of what you see here really isn't all that interesting, I'm aware, it's an overall effect that I'm going for, lol!

Here's the spread:



Front wheel bearing assembly:



Rear bearing assembly:



Steering rack components:



A transfer case recall kit, I ordered three of these because each includes a universal, and since it's a recall product, it's cheaper than buying the universal alone, lol!



Driveshaft carriers:



Front bushings, rears are already at home:



ACT friction disc and flywheel, I'm currently running a 2600lb ACT pressure plate with the same friction disc (done), and a stock flywheel. This flywheel weighs 11.05lbs:



Braking components, powerslot rotors, Hawk front pads, OEM rear pads, and braided lines:





Here you can see the forward passenger side rear subframe poly urethane bushing at home:



New upper control arm ball joint:



...and the lower:



New upper control arm camber bolts, and lower bolts in place:



Another view of the camber bolts in which you can see the poly bushings:



This is the front trailing arm mount on the subframe, new camber bolts and poly bushings (still need to be pressed into the trailing arm) here as well:



And last, the mustache bar with poly pressed in (this bolts to the rear diff cover, and secures to the unibody):



Still got a LOT of work to do, but all is coming along nicely!
 

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Why didn't you go cross drilled and slotted for the rotors? Just a question, I see a lot of people in the DSM world go slotted but not drilled and slotted can you inlighten me please.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Why didn't you go cross drilled and slotted for the rotors? Just a question, I see a lot of people in the DSM world go slotted but not drilled and slotted can you inlighten me please.
Well, for one (and I'm not sure why) everyone who makes rotors for these cars offers either slotted or cross drilled, but not both unless it's really high end and expensive. When it came down to decided which I wanted (and since they accomplish the same thing) I went with slotted just because I like the look better, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Lot's of progress since my last update! My RM Racing swaybars finally showed up, and last night, my brother and I finished the rear end. It looks beautiful with all urethane bushings, and all the new ball joints, nuts and bolts, big 'ol fat swaybar, slotted rotors, etc... It is now sitting on my dining room floor awaiting installation (very understanding woman at home). Also got the bushings out of the front control arms and front subframe cores, which are now awaiting urethane. All that's left is to rebuild the factory manual rack core, install it in the subframe with the RM swaybar, and urethane, then the new clutch and flywheel will go in when the old subframe and suspension come out, then the new one goes in, a couple easy things like installing an intake manifold and urethane engine mounts, but all told, I think I'll be on the road before the end of November!

I'm leaving for Wolf Creek after work, I'll post a pic of the finished rear end when I get home tomorrow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
A couple pics of the completed rear end:





I'll be pressure washing the unit, then taping and painting for rust prevention...
 

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Thanks for the updated & keep them coming. I cant wait to see it when its all done. Great job!
 
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