[spooledup]

The Supra is finally getting some long over do maintenance/mods. I am preparing it for greatness :rotfl:.

Anyway the clutch has been giving me problems. I replaced the mater cylinder, slave cylinder, and even added the shorter 94 shifter for good measure. Still had problems and over the weekend I pulled out the tranny. Clutch looks beat up pretty good. One of the pressure plate bolts was totally loose and some of the straps on the floater disks where ripped off. I am unsure what their purpose is.

Broken strap

Notice the cracks.

Loose pressure plate bolt.

I am planning on rebuilding the HKS triple disc clutch as long as the flywheel is resurfaceable. The rebuild includes all new discs, new floaters, new pressure plate disc. I am also going to replace all the bearings and everything else I can get new.


While I had the car apart I decided to go for it and rip the old fuel system out. IT had two walbros, -8 feed, stock feed, stock return, fpr, PHR rail, and 880cc Siemens injectors. I am planning on 1200cc injectors, Teflon -10 feed line, keep the FPR, -8 teflon return, anodized -10 fuel rail, and twin stock Supra pumps wired in with relays. Its going to be an E85 safe fuel system and probably good for 700 whp actual. If I add a third pump who knows but 700 here sounds good . On C16 the fuel system will support 1000 whp corrected for sure (I can only dream it seeing that some day).

If you are going to pull shit out do it right. That sent me to my next idea, hey why dont I pull out the fuse box from the engine bay and put that bitch in the trunk. Evict that damn bastard battery and put it on the back on the bus also. Re wire some stuff under the hood and tuck all the wires I can. It should clean it up nice and free up some space to work more easily on it. I do need information on what I need to do when I relocate the battery to the back per NHRA rules? I know it needs a box and I think the cut off switch. I really would hate to put the cut off switch so some ideas would be helpful on how to make it nicer.

Ill be updating with pics and I progress. Here is how the car looks after the weekend of pillaging.

You can see the fuse box in this picture.

This car is my inspiration. Stephane's Anthracite Supra. Easily one of my top 3 favorites. Simple, clean, and all business. Eventually I want to do a wheel tire combination similar to his but polised rather then black. Here is pics so you can get the idea.

 

[505streetracer]

Good luck with everything cisco..... I am sure you will get it done just the way you want it and it will be a freakin monster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have faith in you brotha!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[NoVa]

hell ya its about time man good luck with the E85 and clutch job post pics of everything

 

[LS1=GOD]

good luck with the build! its about time something new goes on the supra

 

[Johnvon the Dick]

good luck with the build

 

[Yahtzee]

G/L man, looks like you got your work cut out for ya...

 

[buffhomer]

I'm out of town so I'm working off of memory here. The battery doesn't necessarily have to be in an approved box, but you would have to have a real firewall. If I remember right it has to be .024" steel or .035" aluminum. The cutoff switch has to be mounted in the rear of the car (exact location doesn't matter), and if it's a push/pull style switch then PUSH has to be the action to disconnect. Either way, it has to be clearly labeled. Some people buy a spare taillight and put the Flaming River style rod through there for the track. I hid mine behind the license plate and used an actual rotary style switch from summit.

For the power to the car, I'm not sure how the poopie has the electrical system set up, but on my Mustangs I upgrade to a 3G alternator which has a single charging cable versus the old harness on the 2G. You would run the battery (+) and the alternator (+) to one side of the switch, and from the other side of the switch run a (+) cable up to the stock distribution point (could be the starter solenoid, could be a charging post, etc.). Rules say that all power has to be cut off from the car when you throw the switch.

Refer to General Regulations Section 8 of the NHRA rulebook.

 

[TRMIN8R]

Hell yeah, that bitch is gonna be badass. For the cut off switch, I've always thought it would be cool to put it behind the license plate, so when you're at the track you can just take the plate off and the switch will be easily accessible. And when you put the plate back on, it looks normal.

I love that Anthracite Supra. The coating on the turbo looks awesome!

 

[lgp927]

cool man, car should be awesome once you are done, I was going to move my fuse box too but I looked at all those wires and I said hell no I dont want to mess with it.
Hey man did you find those pics? if not i have them in my computer. hit me up if you have any questions

 

[spooledup]

cool man, car should be awesome once you are done, I was going to move my fuse box too but I looked at all those wires and I said hell no I dont want to mess with it.
Hey man did you find those pics? if not i have them in my computer. hit me up if you have any questions

Ya I found them. I need to go through them more closely but I got the idea. Thanks for all the help Luis.

 

[JEWPRA]

Very nice Cisco, I'm sure it will be a monster when you are done. I finally got a license plate so my switch is now hidden behind it. Be hard to cut holes in that beautiful car.

 

[PUN1SHR]

Good luck with the build Cisco, should be pretty badass when its done.

 

[SINISTER]

Hurry up you jew.

About time you put that car under the knife! Going to be sick as **** when its done and rolling on some Bogarts.

 

[WHTKNTE]

wow that is a big ass turbo on that suora... yours should be wicked when done good luck mang!!

 

[spooledup]

I worked on it all weekend. I took the turbo off to get to a coolant line I am re doing. I also am going to try some "Right Stuff" on the oil return to see If I can stop it from leaking. I wanted to inspect the turbo also. I was worried that the anti lag may have started eating up the exhaust wheel. It checked out great, no imperfections and no shaft play.

I took off the oil cooler so I can relocate it into the drivers side front rather then behind the intercooler where it makes a ton of heat. I am unsure how I am going to mount it but Ill figure something out.

Interior is all out but ready to go back in. I was going to relocate the fuse but and run the wires inside the car but after taking it apart I decided against it. Relocating the fuse box will be nightmare and to much trouble. But I did have to get the ECU and HKS VPC/GCC out along with some other misc stuff.

I did away with a bunch of coolant lines that run into the throttle body, IAC, and the stock oil cooler. I think eliminating these will make the car more reliable, less shit to break lol.

I also did a lot with the harness. I eliminated some extra connectors, re routed some things, soldered the fuel injector connections, and found a few other connectors that need fixing.

ECU with the HKS gear.

Good old interior.

Mess of wires.

All I need is some money so I can start ordering replacement parts.

 

[TRMIN8R]

Sweet, looks like you did a lot of work on that bitch.

 

[turbomopie]

Goo work Cisco

 

[H0TR0Dn]

Looking good!

 

[spooledup]

I did some more work over the weekend. I got the engine harness out of the car, removed some extra wires, and labeled everything so I can get started with the relocation of the fusebox to the rear. Yup thats right I decided against relocating it but I got carried away and now I have to lol. It seems like it will not be as difficult as I was thinking.

I also decided to paint the engine bay now that its bare. I bought some color matched spray paint form Automotive Touch Up and I used some high temp clear. It came out pretty good. Here are some pics right after I finished.

 

[buffhomer]

OMG you're a ****ing mexican, dahahahaa.

Aluminum foil.

HAHAHAHAAA