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FUCK FOURLOKO!!
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10,258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As most know my car is currently running low 10s on the stock block. Many are taking bets on when this block is going to say peace to the world and I know it won't last forever.. When it does go of course I will be building something stronger that should make more power and hopefully take some time off of my ET. Of course right now the car is only good for a 10.0.... So I have looked all over the internet and can't find anything on specs for what needs to be done to pass the 8.50 certification. Of course bar thickness, quality welds, and I don't know what else. So if anyone can give me a list of the requirements to cert a 92 fox for an 8.50 that would be great.
 

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9 Second Street Machine
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5,127 Posts
Certified Chassis. Wow. In the NHRA rulebook it'll tell you all the bars that are necessary. Of course after you install all the bars then you have to take the car to one of these chassis certifications to have it checked out. The actually check the wall thikness with cool little tool. I have heard that TIG welding is mandatory, but I am not sure if that is completely true. Of the cars I have helped with we fitted everything and tacked everything together with my MIG and then a real welder came and TIGed it all together. I THINK the TIG is mandatory. Also, I believe that funny looking "funny car cage" thing around the driver is mandatory as well. It isn't hard to build if you follow the instructions in the book, but it it very time consuming if you want it to look right. Personally, I won't go there unless I decide to front half my car. In the event I open that can of worms it'll take me a couple of years to complete. I have consiered it maybe when I retire in 7 years. Otherwise the car will alway be a 10.0 roll BAR car and never have a CAGE.
 

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Premium Member
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6,225 Posts
For the 8.50 cert, you don't need a funny car cage, just a 10pt. That much I do know. Since I already have a 6pt then I figure, what the hell, might as well put in the other 4 bars and not get hassled when I go over 135 or quicker than 9.99.

I know you need a battery cut off, and a window net. Other than that, I'm lost lol
 

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FUCK FOURLOKO!!
Joined
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10,258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For the 8.50 cert, you don't need a funny car cage, just a 10pt. That much I do know. Since I already have a 6pt then I figure, what the hell, might as well put in the other 4 bars and not get hassled when I go over 135 or quicker than 9.99.

I know you need a battery cut off, and a window net. Other than that, I'm lost lol
Those are all the things I know of.. Don't want to go to the chassis cert guys and leave with them shaking their heads. Not to mention losing the 100 bucks or whatever it is.
 

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Old slow and broke
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1,119 Posts
Here you go, but I suggest that you pick up a 2009 rule book (this is from a few years back). Cisco was asking the same thing on RSW, so hopefully this will also answer his questions.







 

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Premium Member
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1,859 Posts
Best bet is buy what you need from a reputable shop-I.E. Wolferacecraft and have whomever you trust/afford install it. That's what I am doing. Costing me about 1200 ish plus time/welding materials. The shitty part is the next step is a big expensive step (lol like any steps are cheap and easy in drag racing).
 

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Premium Member
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386 Posts
Hey joe, One of my cars is sitting in my garage and is set up with a wolfecraft cage that certs for 8.50's. Your welcome to come look at it and i can give you all the specs on it!
 

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FUCK FOURLOKO!!
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10,258 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey joe, One of my cars is sitting in my garage and is set up with a wolfecraft cage that certs for 8.50's. Your welcome to come look at it and i can give you all the specs on it!
Thanks Mike!! I'd love to, i'll give you a call this weekend if you're not going to be busy?
 

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Ex-Nazi
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2,213 Posts
.083" wall thickness chromemoly, .118" if you go mild steel. The chassis inspector should use an ultrasonic thickness gauge to check the bar thickness if he's worth a shit. Different bars can be different O.D. (outside diameter), look at the pages gsmopar scanned in for reference (3rd scan one down, right side). If you do a CM (chromemoly) cage you must TIG weld it, a mild steel cage can be MIG'd. People like to say CM is lighter than MS which is untrue. The thickness required is less so you have thinner steel, this is where the weight savings comes from for CM over MS.

10 point is all you need and yes, swingouts WILL cert to 8.50 if done properly.

Go to Wolfe's website and look at what they offer, I have a 14pt and it fits great.

I would recommend that whoever welds it preheat before they start welding, especially if it's cold in your shop. Chrome likes to crack if you aren't particularly careful. Get a bottle of alcohol to clean the areas with and be sure to use a stainless wire brush to prevent contamination. Talk to TriGas and see about ordering a couple lbs of 4130 GTAW rod to use. Clean clean clean for quality work and strength.
 

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5th Gear
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7,052 Posts
What are the minimum requirements for 10.0 in a vert? I think I am going to put one in the cobra. I posted a thread on modfords and there is some confusion and different times bein posted ect.
 

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Premium Member
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386 Posts
Thanks Mike!! I'd love to, i'll give you a call this weekend if you're not going to be busy?

Just give me a call man. I'll be home all weekend. I lost your # when i got rid of my old phone so i sent you a couple PM's about the other stuff we were talking about earlier. :driving:
 
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