[Pro_Street_Vega]

Video Here

http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/cc262/connercop/?action=view&current=October2008NOS.flv

 

[PUN1SHR]

Nice runs. Its nice to see a vid w/o music sometimes, you can actually hear the car. I'm sure you'll get your 9. You just need to get that 60 ft down.

 

[Yahtzee]

Nice runs! Just a quick question..your running a 250 shot on a completely stock bottom end sbc? How long have you been spraying that much? And how do you tune it??

 

[WHTKNTE]

nice car bro. halls ace... reminds me of my buddys 280z with a 383 in it.

 

[JEWPRA]

Nice runs Scott. Were you running the 250 at NO BULL? I thought you were on a smaller shot for some reason but looks like your times out in Roswell were just a couple tenths better than here.

 

[Pro_Street_Vega]

There are a few tricks to making a stock small block handle a 250 shot.
1. Stall the convertor to 4000 RPM on motor only and wire the nitrous so it can't come on while the trans brake is on. The engine is already turning 4000 RPM so the 250 shot does not "shock" the stock bottom end. I have a wide open throttle switch that is "locked out" with a relay whan the trans brake is on.
2. Pump gas in the gas tank, but C16 in the nitrous enrichment fuel cell under the hood. The C16 gas supplies only the nitrous solenoid from it's own fuel cell and own fuel pump. The carb gets it fuel from the tank in the rear (pump gas). This is also a big money saver because this way you're on pump gas driving on the street, in and out of the trailer, during the burnout, down the return road, etc. You only use C16 while actually spraying the nitrous.
3. 30-32 degrees total timing.
4. Cold plugs
5. Stout ignition system
6. Low RPMs (I was pushing my luck this weekend) Nitrous NEEDS NO GEAR. With the incredible amount of torque produced excessive reving of the engine is not necessary. The nitrous will pull any gear so DON'T gear it.

 

[Pro_Street_Vega]

Nice runs Scott. Were you running the 250 at NO BULL? I thought you were on a smaller shot for some reason but looks like your times out in Roswell were just a couple tenths better than here.

I was on the 250 shot in Albuquerque as well. Shoot, how else do you think I can get a 12.90 car to run the 10.0 class? :driving:

 

[Yahtzee]

There are a few tricks to making a stock small block handle a 250 shot.
1. Stall the convertor to 4000 RPM on motor only and wire the nitrous so it can't come on while the trans brake is on. The engine is already turning 4000 RPM so the 250 shot does not "shock" the stock bottom end. I have a wide open throttle switch that is "locked out" with a relay whan the trans brake is on.
2. Pump gas in the gas tank, but C16 in the nitrous enrichment fuel cell under the hood. The C16 gas supplies only the nitrous solenoid from it's own fuel cell and own fuel pump. The carb gets it fuel from the tank in the rear (pump gas). This is also a big money saver because this way you're on pump gas driving on the street, in and out of the trailer, during the burnout, down the return road, etc. You only use C16 while actually spraying the nitrous.
3. 30-32 degrees total timing.
4. Cold plugs
5. Stout ignition system
6. Low RPMs (I was pushing my luck this weekend) Nitrous NEEDS NO GEAR. With the incredible amount of torque produced excessive reving of the engine is not necessary. The nitrous will pull any gear so DON'T gear it.

So with all of that, how long should the bottom end last? Until something goes wrong? Or is it like a "hit or miss" "I hope it doesn't blow up today?"

 

[Pro_Street_Vega]

I actually have never blown one up (knock on wood) unless something has gone wrong. The previous motor was 10:1 and had 5 long bracket racing seasons and about 20 or 30 250 shot passes on it before the MSD blew it up. Granted, I wouldn't be surprised if something let go, but so far so good. I imagine I am about at the limit for stock bottom ends. The "ragged edge" so to speak. Hopefully it lasts until I get the Dart clock assembled. LOL