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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I need to drop about a tenth off my ET and my 60', but can't go over 135mph. Which I am already going a little over 135, with 135.7 and 135.9 being my best passes. I'm putting on some QA1's in the front, prolly Strange adjustables in the rear, and a Spohn drag sway bar. I have to stay under 135mph in the 1/4 since I don't have an NHRA license. The car is running 10.1x-10.3x pretty consistently and I just need a little more to run in the 10.0 range. The 10.1's come on a fresh bottle and the car slows down a little on the second pass. I'm just worried about the first pass out of a bottle right now. The battery is still in the front, but I don't think that hurts too much.

Any thoughts?
 

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I think you have a 9 sec car already. Just wait on better weather. If you want a better 60 with similar mph then maybe a taller tire, diff gear ratio.

If I were you I would try adding weight over the rear tires to allow for a harder launch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think you have a 9 sec car already. Just wait on better weather. If you want a better 60 with similar mph then maybe a taller tire, diff gear ratio.

If I were you I would try adding weight over the rear tires to allow for a harder launch.
I think it will go in the 9's with good weather too, but I don't wanna do that at the No Bull lol, I may move the battery.....
 
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So I need to drop about a tenth off my ET and my 60', but can't go over 135mph. Which I am already going a little over 135, with 135.7 and 135.9 being my best passes. I'm putting on some QA1's in the front, prolly Strange adjustables in the rear, and a Spohn drag sway bar. I have to stay under 135mph in the 1/4 since I don't have an NHRA license. The car is running 10.1x-10.3x pretty consistently and I just need a little more to run in the 10.0 range. The 10.1's come on a fresh bottle and the car slows down a little on the second pass. I'm just worried about the first pass out of a bottle right now. The battery is still in the front, but I don't think that hurts too much.

Any thoughts?
do what every one else does hit it with another 125 and just shut down the big shot when you get close to the end of the track, and dont forget to unplug your brake lights that way when you have to slow your 9sec car down to run with the 10sec class.
It works ive seen it happen
 

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Ex-Nazi
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I haven't seen the car leave so it's hard to say. But, if you can keep it hooked up, LIMITING suspension movement will make you go quicker.

Power spent lifting the front/wheelies/squatting/twisting is power that can be used to propel you forward. My Mustangs always leave quicker when the front end travel is slowed down (to a point).

Your plans should work, anti-roll bar in the rear, adjustable shocks front and rear. Make the car efficient.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, so I have the front QA1's and a rear drag sway bar. The rear shocks are gonna have to wait, how much impact will they have?
 

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Are the shocks 90/10's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The fronts are 12 way adjustable Hals, that's all I know...I would assume there is a 90/10 setting
 

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Keep it stiff at the right rear.
 

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Fat white guy
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Do you have air bags in the rear springs yet? What all do you have done to your car suspension wise? Dom should still have an airbag in the right rear of the WS6 that is pretty easy to change out. I assume you have already removed the sway bar as well?

Also if you increase/decrease the angle on the torque arm doesn't that help alittle but sacrifices ride quality? Those are just a few cheap things that might help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I don't have an airbag. I have a UMI adjustable torque arm, and relocation x member, subrames, and lca's. Stock shocks in the rear, stock sway bar in the rear as well. Stock springs all the way around. I will be putting on a spohn pro series drag sway bar in the rear along with 12 way adjustable hals in the front. I'll get some rear hals soon. Should I get an airbag too?

I could sacrifice ride quality no problem, which way do I adjust the TA to drop 60' times?
 

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Fat white guy
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I've heard the air bag helps. I never had a problem with the 325's rubbing whenever I aired up the bag. I think we had it at like 27psi but I don't remember. The guy I sold my M/T's to had problems with his car rubbing until he put bags in, but he only ran it a few times after he put the bags in, so he wasn't sure if that is what fixed it or not. As far as the pinion angle, I'm thinking that you increase it so that the rear end is trying to crawl forwad pushing the rear tires down on launches, but I'm not sure.
 

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Ex-Nazi
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Again, make the car more efficient. It hooks already, what you need to do is reduce power losses through suspension movement and/or body movement/roll.

To reduce some of the body movement, like I said, an anti-roll bar is the way to go for body roll. You have that covered.

Can you adjust the front of the arm upwards/downwards? You will want to increase anti-squat, this usually works great in autos. Same premise that slapper bars, lift bars and slide-a-links work on.
 

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Again, make the car more efficient. It hooks already, what you need to do is reduce power losses through suspension movement and/or body movement/roll.

To reduce some of the body movement, like I said, an anti-roll bar is the way to go for body roll. You have that covered.

Can you adjust the front of the arm upwards/downwards? You will want to increase anti-squat, this usually works great in autos. Same premise that slapper bars, lift bars and slide-a-links work on.
I agree with thie above. However are you hooking without problems? Do you spin at all? Can the tires take whatever rpm launch you choose?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It doesn't spin at all right now. The body does twist and squat pretty hard though.
 
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