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Discussion Starter #1
I lost alot of top end power , starts high 2nd and it really loses rpm on 3rd. Don't know whats going on. I see the rpm start struggling up high. 1st gear is kick ass. I got a 85 mm bbk intake manifold, with a matching throttle body, headers, slp cold air intake kit. Slp lid. Smooth bellow. its a 6speed. Any ideas? it has spark plugs that are gapped 60 . Ngk they are pretty new. no cats .
 

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What do you mean by struggling? Does it feel like it's missing, or just doesn't accelerate as fast, or maybe the clutch is slipping? Did you do anything recently, like headers or whatever? Does the car have a SES light? Might be worth getting the codes read.
 

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Do you even lift?
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Check all the plugs, make sure none are loose, make sure all your wires are seated on the coil packs and on the top of each plug.

Do you have an SES light? Could be an O2 sensor, or the MAF could be dirty.
 

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LSX EVERYTHING
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Dude are yous serious!> you drive ans L!S thats your porblem1!! get a ford anda be doen with it...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Clutch is practicly new with about 2 or 3 thousand miles on it. Its a ls7 clutch. It feels like it misses up top. Dont know if its getting too much air. I ran with the air clean off sence it was dirty and couldnt feel any wind through it.
 

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Is it tuned? Check your plugs, possible that maybe the fuel is too rich/lean or it's knocking. Have you changed anything recently or did it just start doing this?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
no, it started to have that problem, then it got worse. It has service engine light, but that's because its has no cats and some of the egr shit aint connected.
 

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no, it started to have that problem, then it got worse. It has service engine light, but that's because its has no cats and some of the egr shit aint connected.
Get the codes read if you can. Autozone will do it for free. There could be more than the egr/no cats thing and you'd never notice because the light was already on.
 

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Fat white guy
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How many miles do you have on it? Do you have aftermarket valve springs? Have you hit the limiter recently? Sounds to me like you might have a weak valve spring. My old WS6 had a broke outer valve spring on the #7 intake valve. It was good on the bottom end but after 3500 RPMS it would start to cut out and get worse the higher the RPMS. You might also have a bent valve. First I would get the codes read, then I would change the plugs next, they're cheap and easy, because my uncle had a new set of plugs that lasted about 2,000 miles and one started grounding out through a small crack to the block. Then change valve springs.

My WS6 never threw a code on the busted valve spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
How many miles do you have on it? Do you have aftermarket valve springs? Have you hit the limiter recently? Sounds to me like you might have a weak valve spring. My old WS6 had a broke outer valve spring on the #7 intake valve. It was good on the bottom end but after 3500 RPMS it would start to cut out and get worse the higher the RPMS. You might also have a bent valve. First I would get the codes read, then I would change the plugs next, they're cheap and easy, because my uncle had a new set of plugs that lasted about 2,000 miles and one started grounding out through a small crack to the block. Then change valve springs.

My WS6 never threw a code on the busted valve spring.
How would i know if its weak?Ill get the codes tomorrow. I hope its something simple and cheap. Also it has 103 k miles
 

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Fat white guy
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How would i know if its weak?Ill get the codes tomorrow. I hope its something simple and cheap. Also it has 103 k miles
I would say if the codes don't give you an answer, change the vavle springs. I'm pretty sure you can find some stock ones for cheap. I have no idea what I did with the ones I pulled out of my car, but if I could find them I would give them to you, just one was messed up. If you plan on going with a cam, I would just put some cheap ones in until you get your cam and springs. I also recommend the LS1tech style valve spring compressor, it makes it pretty easy on dual valve springs. It's not as bad as it sounds to change them, just make sure you have the piston at top dead center before you take the springs loose. I did mine by myself in like 4 hours, it would have been less if I would have had somebody to help me find top dead center.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
it said it wasnt making connection or something for the O2 sensor on the passenger side and some other code. What does that mean ? Is it a ground or just the plug?
 

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Bank 1 is the drivers side, sensor 1 is before the cat. Replace that one.

edit: I looked that code up on LS1tech, and there were only a few threads with that code in it (yours was one, lol). Everyone was saying that it meant the sensor wasn't getting hot enough, some people said it was the bosch sensors. Hard to say, but I'd at least try replacing the sensor. You might have to try a different brand.
 

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Fat white guy
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I wouldn't think that, that would cause you to loose your top end power. I think that was a code that I gto every once in awhile too, but I can't remember.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Bank 1 is the drivers side, sensor 1 is before the cat. Replace that one.

edit: I looked that code up on LS1tech, and there were only a few threads with that code in it (yours was one, lol). Everyone was saying that it meant the sensor wasn't getting hot enough, some people said it was the bosch sensors. Hard to say, but I'd at least try replacing the sensor. You might have to try a different brand.
Yea i had a warrantee on the drivers, i went ahead and exchanged it today.

I wouldn't think that, that would cause you to loose your top end power. I think that was a code that I gto every once in awhile too, but I can't remember.
Yea thats what i heard man.



I changed the fuel pump 2 a new one
Took off the muffler to see if it was clogged in the CHambers. Still the same shit. IM thinking weak valve springs or valves.
 
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